Memory Suggestions

[chaz]

I capture at 720/480. The analog part of the Raptor starts dropping frames somewhere between 10 and 15 fps. At the lower resolutions, i.e. 360 or 352 or 320 by 240 it does fine at 29.97.

"Why would you need to change the speed to 60% if the playback speed had already been set?"

If I preset the fps to 18, the avi file will play back at 18 fps, the correct speed, on the computer via media player. It plays at 29.97 from the DV software to NTSC TV out, regardless of what I specify. Must be part of the DV specs. So I have speeded up video to the monitor until after I adjust 60% in software. My template in MSP6 for Raptor DV is 29.97, so if I import a file that is 18fps, then adjust to 60%, I get the correct playback after render. Even if I render to 18 fps in the DV codec, it plays at 29.97.

This may not seem to make sense, but I know I had to do it, as I had trouble if I didn't. Its been a few months since I did any film capturing, so I don't recall the exact trouble I had.

"The heat from a larger bulb can cause the film to buckle and warp, which will cause the edges to go out of focus. The smaller 40 watt bulb is only a dollar at the hardware store and lasts 1500 hours!"

I have contemplated changing bulbs. But projector bulbs have a focal distance where the light is directed. How is this 40 watt bulb bright enought? It looks like an ordinary frosted globe bulb. I guess it must work, or you wouldn't be using it.

I have a dimmer on my bulb, which is 30 volts originally. I usually run no more than 18-20 volts while capturing. When I order the condenser I may rework my projector and change the bulb. I may have to to avoid hot spots with the condenser?

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[crimsonson]

"If I preset the fps to 18, the avi file will play back at 18 fps, the correct speed, on the computer via media player. It plays at 29.97 from the DV software to NTSC TV out, regardless of what I specify. Must be part of the DV specs. So I have speeded up video to the monitor until after I adjust 60% in software. My template in MSP6 for Raptor DV is 29.97, so if I import a file that is 18fps, then adjust to 60%, I get the correct playback after render. Even if I render to 18 fps in the DV codec, it plays at 29.97"


Maybe I can help to clarify,
DV Codec, no matter which manufacturer, is fixed at NTSC 29.97 . Any file imported and recompressed by a DV Codec, Canopus's for example, will be recompressed at 29.97. Thus, a 18fps avi file will be sped up in order to get it to specs. By applying the slow motion effect, Chaz basically counteracts the Codec's required speed manipulation.

Chaz, I also have a DV Raptor. I am currently in the process of upgrading my system to Avid Xpress DV v2. I like that card very much and will migrate it to my new system. Which DV deck and/or cam are you using. Im in the market for a camera and soon a deck also.

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[MovieStuff]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Courier, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by chaz:

I have contemplated changing bulbs. But projector bulbs have a focal distance where the light is directed. How is this 40 watt bulb bright enought? It looks like an ordinary frosted globe bulb.

When I order the condenser I may rework my projector and change the bulb. I may have to to avoid hot spots with the condenser?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ah! You have just answered your own question about the 40 watt bulb. It ISN'T bright enough for regular projection but for condenser lens applications you don't want a focused bulb; diffused is better.

Consider laying a slide on a light box and copying it with a Nikon or something. Now, which would look better; A bare, focused light bulb behind the slide or a diffused light source like you get off the light box?

Think of the gate of the projector as a teeny tiny light box. You want the light behind the frame to be diffused and evenly spread across the entire frame from corner to corner. That's impossible to do with a focused backlight. Also, the fact that it's focused makes that 80 watt bulb seem like a 1000 watt bulb, as far as the film is concerned. Like burning ants with a magnifying glass. Even with the dimmer at half power, a 500 watt reduction isn't really an improvement, in terms of how the heat will cause focus shifts. However, using a puny 40 watt diffused light means the film never even gets warm and the light is nice and soft and even. Did I mention the bulbs are only a buck?

Roger

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Roger Evans
MovieStuff
http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff.html

[MovieStuff]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Courier, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mcflytrap:
I'm considering purchasing a computer for video editing. I would be using a workprinter to transfer the film to my computer.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi!

Typically, here's what you need to make the WorkPrinter work.

300+ megs of RAM

Pentium II or faster

7200 RPM drives (real media drives)

A capture card like the Pennacle StudioDV and edit software like Premier.

NOTE: The capture board/edit software combination is crucial for use with the WorkPrinter. For instance, the StudioDV won't perform stop motion capture by itself and that function isn't even listed in its capabilities. Premier, of course, isn't even a capture program/board. However, together the two will allow for stop motion capture.

Now, just opening Premier and looking at your capture options won't do the trick. You MUST plug in a camera and verify that the set up will, indeed, capture single frames in the stop motion capture mode. I've had several clients that made the mistake of not doing that when I told them to prior to buying the WorkPrinter-2. I asked if their system would perform stop motion capture and they'd say,"Oh, yeah. I looked and it's got it." Then, later on, they try to actually use the stop motion function and find that it's dead, even THOUGH the button for stop motion capture is present on the Premier console.

Also, so far, Macs (regardless of how fast) have not been able to keep up with the 6fps demand rate of the WorkPrinter. In fact, every client that has a Mac has ordered the slower WorkPrinter-3 because the Macs take, like, 2-3 seconds to write single frames to the drive in the stop motion capture mode. Therefore, as nice as Macs are, they are not "WorkPrinter friendly". Even cheap PC's, on the other hand, seem to have no problem keeping up with capture commands of 6fps.

Now, it should be understood that "stop motion capture" is NOT the same as "still frame capture" nor is it the same as "time lapse capture". Neither of those functions will work with the WorkPrinter. It MUST be "stop motion capture".

If your system does have stop motion capture, then there is an informal speed test that can be done to see if it can keep up. Plug in a camera to the capture board and set for stop motion capture. Then click off frame number one manually. This is often needed to "prime" the system for stop motion capture. If not, the system will fall behind. Then, using either one or two fingers, quickly click off about 20 frames at about 6 fps and keep track of the number of frames in your head that you click off. The number in your head should match the number of frames you clicked off as displayed in the capture window number register. If not, then the system isn't keeping up.

On Macs, you can click off quickly and then stop and the numbers on the window will take a couple of seconds to catch up. The crucial thing is that the frames are not actually being captured until each number on the screen appears. So it's not just the on screen counter that's catching up; the unit is also playing catch up on its captures, as well. That is incompatable with the WorkPrinter which demands that the computer capture on command instantly with no delay.

So, in the end, you need to make sure that your entire system can handle stop motion capture. Systems like the Matrox RT2000 and RT2500 won't and neither will any of the Canopus products. I don't know about Final Cut Pro but I don't think so. I could be wrong. If anyone out there has Final Cut Pro and would like to perform the test I just described, that would be great!

Roger

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Roger Evans
MovieStuff
http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff.html

[MovieStuff]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Courier, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by chaz:

Interesting analogy with the lightscreen. I have a scanner light screen adapter that I now use behind slides when I capture them via attachment to my vidcam. It has no hotspots, and is easy to adjust white balance.

Is this a special bulb, or is it a generic 40 watt frosted white globe with standard size threads?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's a minibase on the bulb. The bulb itself is about the size of an egg. The base and bulb are both available at the hardware store. The base is about $1.95 or less and has screw terminals and mounting holes. I have no idea what the color temp is on the bulb but for video it doesn't really matter since you can white balance. On the WorkPrinter, the bulb sits 90 degrees to the film plane. Originally, there was a tiny mirror that reflected the light through the film. I replace the mirror with a tiny white plastic panel. The light from the bulb is reflected off the panel and is diffused again before going to the gate. Works great.

Roger

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Roger Evans
MovieStuff
http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff.html

[chaz]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Courier, Arial"></font><HR>
[B]


Thanks for the info. I'll be getting in touch in a few months to order the condenser assembly.

chaz

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[This message has been edited by chaz (edited January 10, 2002).]

[chaz]

Crimsonson,

I think I've seen some of your posts on the Raptor forum. I browse daily but seldom post. Do I also recall you from the DC10 forum some time ago?

I don't get to this film forum that much, but I check in every now and again if I have the time.

I use the Sony TRV900 3 chip camera, and the Japanese full size DV/VHS deck. Very happy with the units. I didn't need the SVHS, and saved a few hundred. It will play SVHS though. Very responsive deck, work well with Raptor.

Roger,

Interesting analogy with the lightscreen. I have a scanner light screen adapter that I now use behind slides when I capture them via attachment to my vidcam. It has no hotspots, and is easy to adjust white balance.

Is this a special bulb, or is it a generic 40 watt frosted white globe with standard size threads?

chaz

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